COMFORT FROM THE COLD

We spent the day leisurely rambling around the city, well into the afternoon. It began with a lazy Sunday brunch with friends at Canteen, a sweet, albeit microscopic, establishment that had such a fabulous rockfish hash, I had to order a side of toast solely for plate-mopping duty. Though we lounged in the seafoam green booth for over an hour, debating the merit of James Joyce, it seemed that no sooner had I warmed my mitts around a cup of hot coffee, did we step back out into the December 40s to continue our walk. It was a lazy, cold and cloudy day, and upon returning home in the evening, frigid to the core, I couldn't imagine anything more comforting than a big bowl of this soup. Warming, hearty & satisfyingly chewy, every time I get the cold-induced hankering, I make the biggest pot I can muster, and we dip into it for days. Luckily, as with all soups, the depth of flavor only improves with time.

THE INGREDIENTS

An heirloom variety of spelt wheat, FARRO is used in Italy as a foundation ingredient in soups, stews, salads and desserts. The Italians also mix farro with rice--or substitute it for rice altogether. The particular cultivar Anson Mills grows, extra long and possessing superior flavor and a firm al dente character, is associated with ancient Italian varieties, now extinct. From antiquity, all double hulled wheats (of which farro is one) were threshed by passing shocks of the freshly harvested grain over fire. Anson Mills emulates this threshing process by slow roasting farro, a practice that dramatically increases its aromatic and flavor profile, lowers its cook time and improves its texture at the table.

LACINATO KALE is a dark green, heirloom kale from Tuscany. It is also frequently referred to as dinosaur kale or cavolo nero. It is sweet and delicious and so hardy it can be harvested under a foot of snow. It should be purchased from a local farmer after the first frost when the kale becomes sweeter and more digestible. In Traditional Chinese Medicine, kale is warming, eases lung congestion, benefits the stomach and is a specific healer for the liver and immune system. Additionally, this Superfood (well, “super” in my humble opinion) contains “nutraceuticals” such as lutein, and zeaxanthin, and indole-3-carbinol and is an exceptional source of cholorphyll, calcium, iron, and vitamins A and C. I personally can’t get enough of it!

BORLOTTI BEAN & FARRO SOUP WITH LACINATO KALE

4-6 SERVINGS This warming grain dish is great as a supper side to pork or a vegetarian dinner all on its own. Farro is an ancient heirloom variety of spelt that possesses an unmatchable nutty taste & firm bite. I prefer Anson Mills’ slow-roasted farro, but other brands are popping up in many specialty food stores. Not only is farro high in protein, fiber, vitamins and trace minerals, it can be a boon for those who cannot tolerate hybridized wheat.


INGREDIENTS

2 cups farro
1 cup dried Borlotti or Cannelini beans
1 4-inch piece of kombu (optional)
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 chile de arbol
1 bay leaf
1 large sprig rosemary
1 large sprig sage (containing several leaves)
2 large yellow onions, peeled and diced
4 medium leeks, halved, rinsed and roughly chopped
3-4 stalks celery, rinsed and diced
1 large head garlic, cloves peeled, smashed and minced
1 25-ounce can whole, peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
2 cups vegetable or chicken stock, preferably homemade (see recipe below)
3 pounds of Lacinato kale or other kale variety, rinsed and roughly chopped
½ cup torn flat leaf parsley
Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil for serving, this highest quality you care to buy
Sea salt to taste

NOTES The farro and beans in this recipe requires overnight soaking.
This soup is better the longer it sits – if possible, prepare it a couple hours in advance or up to a day before you plan to serve, store it in the refrigerator and then simply reheat over medium-low heat right before serving.


DIRECTIONS

1. Place the farro and beans in a large bowl and cover with 6 cups of water. Skim off any chaff and hulls that may rise to the surface with a tea strainer. Soak the farro and beans overnight.
2. Drain the farro and beans, rinse and place in a large heavy-based saucepan or cast-iron pot with the kombu. Cover with 10 cups of water and bring to a boil. Simmer gently over low heat, stirring occasionally and skimming any “scum” that rises to the surface, until the farro and beans are tender but still chewy and al dente, about 1 hour. Once done, remove from heat, add 2 teaspoons sea salt and set aside.
3. Meanwhile, heat a large stock-pot over medium-high heat. Add 3 tablespoons of olive, or enough to coat the bottom of your pot with a 1/8-inch of oil. Add the chile, bay leaf, rosemary and sage, and allow them to fry for about 3 minutes, or until their flavors begin to infuse the oil. Add the onion, leek, celery and a generous pinch of sea salt. Sauté until vegetables are tender and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add garlic and continue to cook for 3 minutes more. Remove chile and herbs and discard.
4. Add tomatoes and vegetable or chicken stock and generous pinch of salt. Add reserved farro, beans and cooking liquid. Add chopped kale, stir to combine and cover. Allow to simmer for 30 minutes, or until the kale is tender. Adjust seasoning as necessary.
5. Ladle soup into warmed soup or pasta bowls. Top with a sprinkling of parsley and as much extra virgin olive oil as you can stand (I use copious amounts here – like 1-2 tablespoons!). This soup would also be fantastic topped with a generous portion of Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated on a microplane right before serving. Serve at once.