Monday, December 08, 2008

"SALAD" WOULD BE A MISNOMER






I have made this dish two weeks in a row, a true rarity for my cooking regime. I am often too inspired, if not overwhelmed, by the produce that awaits me each Saturday at the farmer’s market to prepare the same dish twice. However, this one, well, this one was just too good. I kept calling it a “salad”, but as I sit down to write its recipe, I realize that it is so much more than that sparse, leafy green image called to mind with the utterance of that word. It is more composed…more complex…and definitely more filling. (It is also more work, but I guarantee ample reward.)


Though almost any fall vegetable could be used for this dish, my current favorites are Romesco cauliflower, Russian banana fingerling potatoes, Chanterais carrots & a mixture of chicories (such as Treviso).

THE INGREDIENTS

ROMESCO (or sometimes “Romanesco”) CAULIFLOWER is a strikingly beautiful product of nature, yet unfortunately, virtually unknown to so many. The flowers of this Brassica species are a gorgeous chartreuse green, with small curds and pointed tips and have a fractal character in which each part is the approximate shape of the whole. Again, positively striking. I find Romesco to have the same mild, sweet cabbage-like flavor of common white cauliflower, yet its texture much more tender, making it less suitable to roasting (usually my favorite preparation of the common variety – more on this later!) but perfect for light, quick blanching. All cultivars of cauliflower mature in cold, wet weather, when their sugars are the most concentrated. In the fall and winter, search for unblemished, tight heads that boast bright, vibrant leaves. Store the vegetable in a sealed glass container or freezer bag in the refrigerator for several days, after which it will begin to lose its sweetness and spoil.




With all of the root vegetables, chicories, beans and garlic, the nutritional benefits of this dish are too many mention here. Therefore, since I featured the Romesco cauliflower above, I will simply concentrate on its health-boosting qualities. In eastern medicine, cauliflower is considered warming (perfect for those fall and winter meals) and beneficial to the brain (notice how the vegetable’s appearance can be likened to the convoluted surface of the cerebral cortex!). Like broccoli, cauliflower (gram for gram) contains almost as much calcium as whole milk, more vitamin C than an orange and is a source of folate (listen up women!), selenium and vitamins A and E. Additionally, like all cruciferous vegetables, cauliflower contains anti-carcinogenic glucosinolates. And lastly - fiber, fiber and more fiber!



FALL VEGETABLE SALAD WITH CORONA BEANS & GARLIC OIL


4-6 SERVINGS Deeply satisfying and filling, this composed salad is great as a first course antipasto, a main course, as a side to meat or fish, or the ultimate picnic dish, packed into little Chinese take-out containers. Feel free to substitute for the freshest fall vegetables you stumble upon. How can anyone resist vegetables that are heady with the scent of garlic, thyme and olive oil?!

INGREDIENTS

1 ½ pounds fingerling potatoes, such as Russian Banana, scrubbed
16-20 baby carrots, peeled and halved lengthwise
8 heads baby romesco cauliflower, soaked in cold water and picked over for aphids, drained, and halved
1 ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 ½ salt-packed anchovies, minced (optional, but highly recommended)
1 tablespoon finely diced shallot
1 head of garlic, peeled, smashed and minced
1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme
pinch of Piment d’Espelette or chili flakes
3 heads of baby Treviso, or other chicories, separated into spears, rinsed and dried
1 ½ cups cooked Corona or Runner Cannelini beans
Balsamic Vinegar for serving, the highest quality you care to purchase
Maldon for serving (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1. Line a sheet pan with a clean, absorbent towel and set aside. Place potatoes in a heavy saucepan or stock-pot and fill with water. Add a generous hand full of sea salt and bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook potatoes until a paring knife inserted in the side meets no resistance. Remove potatoes with a slotted spoon or spider and spread on reserved sheet pan.
2. Return water to a boil and add carrots. Cook for about 4-5 minutes, or until the carrots just lose the raw flavor and soften ever so slightly. Remove carrots with a slotted spoon and spread on reserved sheet pan with potatoes.
3. Return water to a boil one final time. Add the cauliflower and cook for only 2-3 minutes, or until it turns bright green and softens ever so slightly. Drain and spread on reserved sheet pan with other vegetables.
4. In a medium saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the 1 ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil. Add anchovies and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the anchovies begin to dissolve in the oil, about 5 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and add the shallot, garlic and thyme. Continue to cook for a minute more. Turn off the heat and allow the garlic and shallot to finish cooking in the residual heat – making sure the garlic doesn’t brown. Add Piment d’Espellete or chili flakes.
5. Place cooled vegetables in a very large mixing bowl with the Treviso and Corona beans. Season with a generous pinch of salt and toss gently to combine with clean hands (a spoon or spatula will damage the gently blanched vegetables!). Add garlic oil and toss again, until all vegetables are coated evenly.
6. Divide vegetables amongst plates and top each with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar and a sprinkling of Maldon. Serve at once.



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