HELLO SWEET PEA!

Those bright green beauties were just staring up at me, adoringly, out of their brown paper bag, anxious to be tucked into my tattered market tote. But I wasn’t sure; it has been quite cold here in San Francisco (I’m still donning a wool coat), and with lows in the forties, peas, with their bright flavors and connotations of blossoms and warmth, didn’t seem sensible.

Yet honestly, I need a little spring in my life – after months of hearty stews, rainy days, and stagnant winter energy, revitalization feels duly appropriate. Moreover, I had just passed a stand full of those mahogany, cone-shaped glories of the mushroom kingdom, morels, who – along with fava beans and the coveted peas – are the definitive harbingers of spring.

Continuing to deliberate on the pea purchase, I glanced around – the vernal sunshine beamed ahead; a little blonde beauty skipped by, barely able to maintain her grasp of a massive bouquet of parrot tulips; birds sang spring’s overture; the cold, crisp air possessed that indescribable quality of sublime stillness that denotes ensuing change. I plucked a pod from the brimming bag and deftly rolled my thumb down the seam; eight plump peas fell upon my palm. “Hello Sweet Pea,” I thought, in an almost flirtatious tone. I placed one on my tongue - perfectly sweet. The incessant mental debate fell silent. Thoughtlessly, almost methodically, I chose a several-pound bag from the untidy wooden row; a serene smile descended upon my lips. My thoughts had hushed, but the feeling was poignant – Spring time, my favorite time of year, had arrived.

What does one do with several pounds of peas? The more I pondered this question, I found it difficult to conceive of a more versatile plant. With their sweet, subtle flavor, perfectly green color, yielding, yet toothsome texture, and quick cooking time, they lend themselves to a myriad of dishes. And owing to further reflection on my recent post on squandering, I contemplated the various components of the plant – including the peas, shoots, flowers, and pods – considering their potential uses. The result is a fat file of ideas, recipes, and future plans.

Instead of deciding on a few choice dishes, I think I’ll try them all. I’ve begun with Pea Shoot Pesto, Pea Pod Ice Cream (please don’t cringe and scrunch up your face in horror – it’s good!), Farro with Asparagus, Pea Shoots & Pistachios, ‘Fried’ Black Rice with Sweet Peas & Green Garlic (perhaps some bacon stumbled into the wok), the Venetian risotto-like dish known as Risi e Bisi, Pea Pod Soup with Crispy Proscuitto, and Sautéed Peas & Butter Lettuce (a classic, yes, but one many haven’t experienced). I imagine that before the season is over I’ll try:

Fresh Pea Falafel with Pita, Sheep’s Milk Yogurt & Persian Mint
Fish Tacos with Sweet Pea-Avocado “Cream” & Pea Shoots
Vegetable Pot Pie with Peas & Morels (uh, huh)
Quinoa Risotto with Peas & Saffron (with Lamb Shanks?)
California Sea Bass with a Baby Spring Vegetable Ragoût & Chive Oil
Curried Pea Soup & Homemade Paneer
or maybe, just maybe, Sweet Pea & Rice Bars (inspired by the legume-based desserts of China; quit that scrunching!)…

Perhaps I should devote an entire blog to the precious pea?

Stay tuned.

FARRO SALAD WITH ASPARAGUS, PEA SHOOTS, & PISTACHIOS

4-6 SERVINGS This interesting grain salad is great as a supper side to meat or fish, but also serves as a fabulous break from the typical lunch box sandwich or picnic pasta salad. Kids tend to love anything with pistachios, and find the sweet, curly pea shoots intriguing. Farro is an ancient heirloom variety of spelt that possesses an unmatchable nutty taste & firm bite. I prefer Anson Mills’ slow-roasted farro, but other brands are popping up in many specialty food stores. Not only is farro high in protein, fiber, vitamins and trace minerals, it can be a boon for those who cannot tolerate hybridized wheat.

INGREDIENTS

2 cups farro
2 teaspoons sea salt
2 pounds pencil-thin asparagus, tough ends removed and sliced diagonally into 1 ½ inch pieces
2/3 cup organic pistachios
1 teaspoon pistachio oil or extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 tablespoon thyme or lemon thyme leaves
½ cup thin diagonally sliced green garlic or 3 minced garlic cloves
1 cup thinly sliced spring onion
4 ounces pea shoots
Approximately 2 teaspoons freshly grated lemon zest
Freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste
Sea salt & freshly ground black pepper to taste

NOTES The farro in this recipe requires overnight soaking. Asparagus is best cooked the day it's purchased, but it can be kept in the refrigerator for up to four days if one wraps the bottoms of the stalks in a damp paper towel, and places them in a paper bag in the crisper.

DIRECTIONS

Place the farro in a large bowl and cover it with 4 cups of boiling water. Skim off chaff and hulls with a tea strainer. Soak the farro overnight.

Drain the farro and set aside. Bring 8 cups of water to a boil in a heavy-bottomed, 2-quart saucepan. Add the farro and salt, stir once, and return to a boil. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the farro is tender but still chewy, about 40-45 minutes. Drain through a fine, footed colander and set aside.

Meanwhile, prepare the asparagus and pistachios. Preheat the oven to 375°F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Spread the pistachios on a baking sheet, and toast 8-10 minutes, or until they are lightly browned and a strong nutty aroma fills the room. While the nuts are still warm, toss them with 1 teaspoon pistachio oil or olive oil and a generous pinch of salt, and set aside. Once the water has come to a boil, add a generous pinch of sea salt and add the sliced asparagus. Blanche the asparagus for 1-2 minutes until bright green and crisp-tender. Drain into a colander and immediately spread the asparagus pieces out on clean towel to dry.

Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute. Swirl in 2 tablespoons olive oil and a tablespoon of butter. Once the foam subsides, add the thyme leaves, sliced green garlic, spring onion, and pinch of salt. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often with a wooden spoon until garlic and onions are slightly translucent. Add the blanched asparagus, stirring to coat it with the oil and butter for about 1 minute. Add the farro and stir to combine.

Off the heat, add the reserved pistachios and pea shoots, allowing the shoots to wilt slightly.

Finish farro salad with freshly grated lemon zest & a squeeze of lemon. Drizzle with olive oil and serve warm or at room temperature.