SUMMER VEGETABLE & QUINOA SALAD WITH "MOLE" PUREE & AVOCADO

When I was the chef of a tiny restaurant in Atlanta, GA, this dish was the best-seller. Who can resist an fluffy, earthy grain, accented by the crunch of fresh summer vegetables, intensified by a rich and creamy, sweet and spicy puree?

You could use a variety of seasonal vegetables in this dish. I opt for colorful crisp peppers, plump fresh corn, and juicy tomatoes; the combination reminds me of those long, hot summer days my mom and I would spend at Sandbridge beach in Virginia. We would wake up early in the morning and pack a cooler full of goodies, like turkey pocket-sandwiches, black plums, and granola bars. Then we would head out as quickly as possible to beat the Saturday traffic and secure a prime spot on the sand. We would lounge all day, chatting, reading books, napping, jumping waves and getting smacked by a few too. When it would come time to leave (for us this meant five o’clock in the evening) we would gather our things and make a b-line to the local Farmstand to gather provisions for “din din”, as my mother so adorably referred to it (and still does). We would pick bushels of corn for boiling and buttering, meticulously select several ripe tomatoes that would find their way into din din’s salad and tomorrow’s pocket-sandwich, and gather handfuls of sweet red bell peppers destined for the grill. Summer at its best.

For information on the nutritional/energetic properties of QUINOA, click here.

SUMMER VEGETABLE & QUINOA SALAD WITH MOLE PUREE & AVOCADO


4-6 servings This interesting grain salad is great as a supper side to meat or fish, but also serves as a hearty vegetarian dish on its own and a fabulous break from the typical lunch box sandwich. The mole puree is not necessary, but adds depth and complexity to the dish – not to mention, serving chocolate along aside ANYTHING is a good way to get kids (including the grown-up variety) to eat such a healthy, fiberful meal without fuss!


INGREDIENTS

1 cup dry quinoa, rinsed until water runs clear and drained in a fine mesh strainer
1 ¾ c water or stock
3 large multi-colored sweet peppers, such as purple, red and orange, cut into ¼” dice
3 ears fresh summer corn, shucked, rinsed, and kernels removed
1 pint Sungold tomatoes, halved
1 medium red onion, finely chopped
Sea salt to taste
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lime juice
½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro or micro cilantro greens

Mole puree & sliced avocado for serving

DIRECTIONS

Bring water or stock to a boil in a small pot. Reduce heat and keep at a simmer until ready to use.
Rinse the quinoa: pour the grains into a fine-meshed strainer set over a large clear or white bowl and run water over it. Swish the grains around with your hand. Raise the strainer. If the water is clear and there are no bubbles, no more rinsing is needed. If the water is cloudy or sudsy, first check the grains closely and remove any twigs or other foreign matter. Return the strainer to the bowl and fill it with clean water. Rub the grains gently against the strainer. Lift the strainer and empty the bowl. Fill with fresh water and repeat until the water remains clear and there are no bubbles on the surface. (Red and black quinoa may bleed color, not to be mistaken with dirt or other impurities.) Allow quinoa to dry in strainer.
Toast rinsed and dried quinoa in a small saucepan (whatever you would use to cook rice) on medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until a nutty aroma leaves the pan. Once the grain smells toasty (about 2 min or so), carefully pour the hot water slowly into the pan with the quinoa (do this slowly or it will boil over). Add a good pinch of sea salt. Reduce to a simmer over low heat, and cook for approximately 15-17 minutes, until water is absorbed. Fluff with a fork.
Fold in another pinch of sea salt, chopped vegetables, extra virgin olive oil, lime juice and cilantro. Adjust seasoning if necessary.
Serve warm or at room temperature along side the mole puree and slices of avocado.


“MOLE” PUREE


MAKES APPROXIMATELY 1 QUART


INGREDIENTS

3 seeded dried peppers, preferably ancho
1 large clove of garlic, green germ removed
¼ cup raw cocoa nibs
½ cup toasted pumpkin seeds
¼ cup sesame Tahini
¼ cup raw almond butter
¼ cup cocoa powder
¾ cup organic raisins
½ teaspoon freshly ground cumin
½ teaspoon freshly ground coriander
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 tablespoons raw agave nectar or raw honey, or to taste
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice, or to taste
Sea salt to taste
Almond oil or Extra-Virgin Olive oil to taste

DIRECTIONS

Place all ingredients except almond oil in a blender. Add enough hot filtered water to just cover the ingredients and let stand for 1 hour.
Blend on medium-low speed, adding more filtered water as necessary to achieve a thick sauce-like consistency.
Turn the blender on high and continue blending until completely smooth, 1-2 minutes.
Back on medium-low speed, slowly pour the almond oil through the feed hole in order to emulsify the mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary.
Transfer to a glass container, cover and store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

NEW POTATO SALAD WITH WATERCRESS & MEYER LEMON CRÈME

After testing potato recipes for a previous post, I had a quite a few boiled spuds remaining. It just so happened there was also a pristine bunch of biodynamic watercress on hand. Potatoes and watercress are commonly paired in classic French cuisine, and with good reason; the peppery bite of watercress adds character and depth to the dish, yet its intensity is tamed by the starchy potatoes. I searched my pantry and refrigerator for that extra something, that special component that could marry and enliven the two left-over vegetables. A bowl of Meyer lemons caught my eye, as did a jar of fresh crème fraiche. Together, the four ingredients worked in beautiful harmony, creating a potato salad that would be the star of any picnic or potluck. I hope you’ll give it a try!

WATERCRESS is a wild herb that is now being widely cultivated. I prefer the green in the spring, when its young leaves are tender and slightly sweet. The pungency of watercress signals its detoxifying and carminative (digestive aid) properties.

Purchase watercress that is vibrant and perky, with no signs of wet spoilage or yellowing leaves. Store watercress wrapped in paper towels, in a sealed container, in the refrigerator for up to three days; wash well, but gently before using. Watercress can be eaten raw or lightly wilted by heat; cooking almost entirely eliminates its mustardy bite.

For information on POTATOES, click here.

NEW POTATO SALAD WITH WATERCRESS & MEYER LEMON CRÈME

APPROXIMATELY 6 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

3 pounds baby new potatoes
1 large shallot, finely minced
1 large Meyer lemon
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons crème fraiche
5 cups loosely packed watercress leaves, rinsed well and towel-dried
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

DIRECTIONS

Place baby new potatoes in a large pot; cover with cold water (you start the whole potatoes in cold water so that they cook evenly – from the center out); bring to boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and allow potatoes to cook for approximately 20 minutes, or until a paring knife inserted meets no resistance. Drain potatoes and allow them to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, place minced shallot in a large mixing bowl. Using a Microplane, zest the Meyer lemon into the bowl; add 2 teaspoons of freshly squeezed lemon juice. Add a pinch of salt and allow the shallots to soak in the lemon juice for 5-10 minutes (this will reduce their “raw” flavor). Slowly whisk in extra-virgin olive oil and crème fraiche; taste and adjust seasoning.

To the lemon crème, add potatoes, a pinch of salt, and a few grinds of freshly cracked pepper. Add watercress and toss gently to combine. Serve immediately.

THE BEST ROASTED POTATOES EVER. EVER.

I always want crispy. Whatever it is, it better be crispy, or be topped with something that is. And potatoes are no exception. Though a nice cold potato salad on a hot day has its place, I tend to crave spuds with a crackly, caramelized exterior, loaded with coarse sea salt (for extra crunch, you see). Yet there is an important caveat to this preference: the crispy exterior must be contrasted with the perfect ratio of soft, pillowy interior. Unless you are deep-frying, which frankly, I prefer not to do at home, these complementary characteristics are seemingly impossible to achieve. But I don’t take No for an answer – even if it is coming from my own alter ego (a persona Mike likes to call Gloomy Gus). So I took the only reasonable action.

I purchased a couple pounds of baby new potatoes – my final spring-time treat, as summer produce has started rolling in. Then I began testing. I refuse to reveal how many of those little round starch-bombs I consumed during the process. I justified the carbo-loading with excuses like “Occupational hazard, I suppose. Oh well,” and “Gotta get ready for this weekend’s 17-hour flight!” Did I mention I’m moving to Copenhagen for a couple of months?

What I found during these savory kitchen assays was not so surprising, though I made sure to thoroughly test all samples, in the name of accuracy of course. There is no doubt that boiled equals boring. I adore the French method of braising whole pomme de terre in duck fat or butter until tender, but find the fat’s flavor barely makes it past the skin. Quartering raw potatoes and throwing them into a high-heat oven produces a dry spud; ditto to grilling (yet crispy nonetheless). So is deep-frying the only path to Tasty Tater Nirvana?

No. Check out the recipe below to discover the magnificent method that leads to the best roasted potatoes I've ever had.

POTATOES have a bad rap. Though I support the notion of eating them sparingly, I abhor the thought of swearing them off completely, simply because they are a complex carbohydrate. Potatoes boast many redeeming qualities. They contain significant quantities of vitamin C, B1, potassium, manganese, chromium, and selenium. The skins provide additional nutrients and beneficial fiber. Their juice has antibiotic properties, and their flesh aids in the neutralization of body acids. However, a warning for those with arthritic conditions: potatoes are in the nightshade family (which also includes peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes) and should be consumed infrequently to avoid aggravating inflammation.

New potatoes are freshly harvested baby potatoes, available throughout spring and early summer. Their skin is thin and their flesh sweet. Purchase potatoes that are firm to the touch, smooth, and free of darkened areas. Always avoid potatoes that have sprouts (or “eyes” as they are sometimes called ) or greening flesh. Sprouts signal the potato is old and contains a toxic alkaloid that can lead to an upset stomach. Store new potatoes in a glass container in the refrigerator, and use within a week of purchase.

ROASTED SMASHED POTATOES WITH LEMON & PIMENT D’ESPELETTE


4 SERVINGS

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds baby new potatoes, scrubbed if necessary
Approximately ¼ cup olive oil or duck fat
Piment d’Espelette (see Notes below)
4 lemon wedges, seeded
Sea salt to taste

NOTES
Piment d’Espelette AOC is a precious pepper cultivated primarily in the Basque region. It has a slightly sweet, yet piquant flavor that I absolutely adore. I use it on everything from eggs and potatoes, roasted vegetables, grilled pork, and have even added a pinch to my favorite brownies recipe. You can find it crushed in specialty food stores or online at Amazon and Zingerman’s.

DIRECTIONS

Place baby new potatoes in a large pot; cover with cold water (you start the whole potatoes in cold water so that they cook evenly – from the center out); bring to boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer and allow potatoes to cook for approximately 20 minutes, or until a paring knife inserted meets only slight resistance (at this point, you don’t want the potatoes to be completely soft or they will fall apart when you “smash” them). Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 450 degrees. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper.

Drain potatoes and allow them to cool to room temperature; set the pot aside and reserve for another use. Take a cooled potato and place it on a flat surface like a cutting board; lightly smash the potato with your fist (see photo). You want the potato to flatten slightly but still maintain its integrity. Place smashed potato back in the large pot. Continue the process until all of the potatoes are smashed. Add the olive oil or duck fat to the pot along with a generous pinch of sea salt; toss potatoes to coat. Divide the potatoes between the two sheet pans; make sure not to overcrowd them or they will steam rather than roast and brown. Place the sheet pans in the oven and roast for 30 minutes; turn potatoes and roast for 15 minutes more, or until both sides are brown and crispy.

Remove potatoes from the oven and toss with another pinch of sea salt (I use a coarse variety such as Maldon for finishing) and a pinch of Piment d’Espelette. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.

NO TIME TO SPARE

Sometimes I just can’t catch up. The to-do list continues to grow and the work expands to meet the time allotted. When days like this present themselves, it is so tempting to phone up Tai Chi, our local Chinese take-out joint, and dive back into work until the buzzer rings. Indeed, in the past couple weeks I’ve consumed more dry-braised green beans and brown rice than I care to admit. For me, it may be that exhaustion becomes inextricably linked with the smell of fried garlic, ginger, and soy sauce. I hope not.

Lately, I’ve been overwhelming myself, finding nary a second for cooking or even eating. For instance, a couple of weeks ago, deep in the throes of wedding planning, catering a birthday party, preparing for company, and getting things in order for a temporary move to Copenhagen (long story), I found myself eating strictly for fuel. For instance, one night my dinner consisted of four fresh dates stuffed with blue cheese (left-over from the Cobb salad craving that I’ve finally kicked) and a handful of olives (my belly wasn’t at all pleased). On a particularly hectic day, I scoffed down a lunch of hearty rye bread, which I had swiftly doused in almond butter and apricot jam. The real low-point, however, was the breakfast of left-over said green beans - cold. Here I am, preaching the slow food gospel, desiring to inspire others to take the time to enjoy the process of cooking and eating, yet finding myself completely susceptible to the craziness that a packed calendar can trigger. But I’ll tell you bluntly, during those days that I stuffed my face on the go, I felt awful. Horrible. Bloated and grouchy.

So I developed a system of sorts – pantry items that I promise to always have on hand for those weeks when “Vegetable Lo-Mien, No MSG” seems like the only viable option. And I want to share them with you.

The recipe I’m sharing today is one my favorite “fast foods”. It was inspired by a Turkish spice blend known as baharat, which I now grind in pint-sized batches and store on my spice shelf. It will forever be a permanent member of my larder. Tossed with a quick-cooking whole grain like quinoa or farro piccolo, beans, currants, nuts, and whatever vegetable happens to be in my crisper drawer, baharat transforms the simple into extraordinary. Trust me. Try it!

BAHARAT

This recipe is adapted from one I found in one my favorite cookbooks, Turquoise, by Greg and Lucy Malouf. As the authors note, this all-purpose spice mix varies between households in the Middle East and Turkey. The version below is my own – amped up with extra spice, smoked paprika, and an extra helping of freshly toasted cumin. I keep a bottle of this magical blend on hand at all times. I can’t resist adding it to marinades for grilled lamb and vegetables (please don’t miss an opportunity to sprinkle it on some eggplant or cauliflower before roasting). It is my savior on those busy nights when I need to boost the flavor of a quick grain pilaf. Soon, I’ll turn to simply dipping my olive oil soaked bread in a shallow bowl of the stuff. It’s positively addictive.

INGREDIENTS

3 tablespoons fresh chili flakes (take a chile de arbol and pulse it in a spice grinder or repurposed coffee mill)
½ cup cumin seeds
¼ cup coriander seeds
5 tablespoons smoked paprika (available at specialty food stores or online)
1 tablespoon hot paprika (available at specialty food stores or online)
2 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg (I use the ever-handy Microplane)

DIRECTIONS

Set a small skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chili flakes, cumin seeds, and coriander seeds. Toast, stirring constantly, until aromas are released; be careful not to burn the spices or they will turn bitter.

Pour spices into a spice grinder, mortar, or repurposed coffee grinder and allow to cool for a couple of minutes. Add remaining ingredients. Grind until powdered. Store in an air-tight glass jar for up to three months.

QUINOA PRIMER


Actually a seed rather than a grain, QUINOA (pronouned keen-wa) is now readily available in most supermarkets or health food stores. Quinoa is high in fiber and is considered a complete protein, since it includes all nine essential amino acids (especially lysine, which is essential for tissue growth and repair, and thus important for growing children). In addition to protein, quinoa features a host of other health-building micronutrients, including manganese, magnesium, iron, copper, and phosphorous. It is said to be especially valuable for persons with migraine headaches, diabetes, and atherosclerosis.

Most quinoa sold in the U.S. has been thoroughly washed and requires only a quick rinse, but sometimes further soaking/rinsing helps remove a slightly bitter taste the grain can have (due to a harmless compound called saponin). The rinsing step is not entirely necessary, but I included instructions below.

There are two methods for preparing quinoa and I have outlined them below. It may seem like a lot of steps, but once you become familiar with the process, it goes quickly.

METHOD 1:

This method leads to a finished product that is fluffy and light. However, due to the variable cooking time of any given batch of quinoa, it require adding more water or adjusting the cooking time - just taste to make sure the grains are tender before serving or proceeding with a recipe.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup dry quinoa (yields approximately 2 ½ cups cooked quinoa)
1 ¾ cups water or stock
Sea salt to taste

DIRECTIONS

Rinse the quinoa: pour the grains into a fine-meshed strainer set over a large bowl and run water over it. Swish the grains around with your hand. Raise the strainer. If the water is clear no more rinsing is needed. If the water is cloudy or sudsy, first check the grains closely and remove any twigs or other foreign matter; return the strainer to the bowl and fill it with clean water. Continue the swishing and draining process until the water runs clear. (Red and black quinoa may bleed color, not to be mistaken with dirt or other impurities.) Allow quinoa to dry in strainer.

In a small saucepan, bring the water or stock to a boil over high heat; reduce heat to a simmer. Toast rinsed and dried quinoa in a medium saucepan or cast-iron pot (whatever you would use to cook rice) on medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until a nutty aroma leaves the pan. Once the grain smells toasty (about 2 min or so) and has turned golden brown, carefully pour the hot water or stock slowly into the pan with the quinoa (do this slowly or it will boil over). Add a good pinch of salt. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for approximately 15-17 minutes, until the liquid is absorbed. Fluff with a fork and salt/season as desired.

METHOD 2:

Since no two batches of quinoa (or any grain or seed, for that matter) require precisely the same amount of water to become tender, I find that a guaranteed method to cook quinoa is in an abundance of boiling water – similar to the method for preparing pasta. However, this will lead to a relatively dense, crisp grain than if it is steamed, as in Method 1. For the pilaf recipe below, I prefer Method 1; but I thought I would share another method as well.

INGREDIENTS

1 cup dry quinoa (yields approximately 2 ½ cups cooked quinoa)
Sea salt to taste

DIRECTIONS

Bring a large pot of water to a boil over high heat.

Rinse the quinoa: pour the grains into a fine-meshed strainer set over a large bowl and run water over it. Swish the grains around with your hand. Raise the strainer. If the water is clear no more rinsing is needed. If the water is cloudy or sudsy, first check the grains closely and remove any twigs or other foreign matter; return the strainer to the bowl and fill it with clean water. Continue the swishing and draining process until the water runs clear. (Red and black quinoa may bleed color, not to be mistaken with dirt or other impurities.) Allow quinoa to dry in strainer.

When the water is boiling, add the quinoa. Boil uncovered over medium-high heat until there is no white "dot" of starch evident in the center, 11 to 14 minutes. With most batches, some or all of the germs (little white comma-shaped filaments) will release from the seeds and unfurl; this may happen before the grains are tender. Once tender, drain quinoa in a fine meshed strainer. Drain well by bouncing the strainer up and down. Let the grains sit in the strainer for 5 minutes before dressing or adding to other ingredients.

TURKISH-SPICED QUINOA & ARTICHOKE PILAF

6-8 SERVINGS AS A LIGHT LUNCH OR SIDE DISH Pilafs are often made with white Basmati rice, couscous, or bulgur. Here I opt for quinoa, which offers a satisfying chewy texture and an interesting earthy flavor.

INGREDIENTS

2 lemons
1 medium red onion, diced
1 clove garlic, minced (optional)
5 cups cooked quinoa (see Primer above)
1 pound baby artichokes, store-bought or homemade (Saveur has a great recipe and online gallery here)
2 cans organic, no-sodium added chickpeas, rinsed and drained (I like Eden brand)
1 ½ cups toasted almonds
¼ cup currants
2 tablespoons Baharat (see Recipe above)
1 bunch parsley, roughly chopped
1 bunch cilantro, roughly chopped
2 teaspoons almond oil (optional)
Extra virgin olive oil to moisten (about 3 tablespoons)
Sea salt to taste


Zest the two lemons into a large serving bowl (I use a Microplane); add the juice. To the fresh lemon juice, add the diced onion and garlic, if using, and a pinch of sea salt. Allow to marinate for 5 minutes (the acid will help cut the potency of raw onion and garlic).

Add the remaining ingredients and toss to combine. Taste for seasoning, adding more spice, lemon, oil, or salt as necessary. Serve warm or at room temperature.